Shunpiking Online Vo.4 No.2

Adapted from Sandy Oliver

Time: About an hour

4 ounces fatback, cut into 1/4-inch chunks

1 onion, sliced thin

4 white potatoes, unpeeled

1 pound lean fish like cod, haddock or hake, cut into 3-by-4-inch chunks

1/2 cup crumbled common crackers or saltines

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon black pepper

1 12-ounce can evaporated milk.

1. In a heavy pot over medium heat, cook fatback until nearly crisp. Add onions, stir, and reduce heat to low. "Chip" a potato by holding it in one hand and turning it slowly while using a sharp paring knife to cut quarter-moon-shaped quarter-inch-thick slices directly into pot, creating an even layer. Chips will have a thick end, which will remain intact, and a thin end, which will dissolve and thicken broth. Repeat with remaining potatoes.

2. Add fish in an even layer, then crumbled crackers in an even layer. Do not stir. Add cold water until it nearly covers layers. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, cover, and simmer until potato is tender, about 15 minutes. Remove lid, add evaporated milk, bring to a simmer, and stir. Serve with additional crackers, if desired.

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Adapted from Dick Bridges

Time: About 50 minutes

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter

1 medium onion, chopped in 1/2-inch dice

3 large russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes

6 cups lobster broth (or cold water)

1/2 teaspoon sea salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper.

5 pounds steamed and shucked lobster, claws intact, tails cut in large bite-size pieces

3 cans evaporated milk

1 teaspoon dried basil

1 cup milk or cream, if necessary.

1. In a large kettle over low heat, melt two tablespoons butter. Add onion, stir, and cook until soft, about five minutes. Add potatoes and six cups broth or water, and bring to a simmer. Season with salt and pepper. Cook for about 30 minutes, until potatoes begin to soften.

2. Meanwhile, in a large skillet over medium-high heat, melt two tablespoons butter. Add about a third of the lobster and sauté for about a minute or so. Set aside. Repeat with remaining lobster and butter.

3. Add lobster to onion and potato mixture; stir over medium heat. Add canned milk and basil, taste, and adjust seasoning with additional salt and pepper. If mixture is too thick, add milk or cream. Serve.

Yield: 12 servings.

Note: When Maine shrimp are in season in winter, Mr. Bridges likes to add a handful to his chowder.

Yield: 4 servings.

- MOLLY O'NEILL, New York Times